Well yet another long break between internet cafes… seemed like Greece was still asleep for the winter when we left as most wifi cafes weren’t on line just internet game places… way too loud for much other than checking the mail!!We are in Turkey now and slowly winding our way up the Dardanelles and Marmara Sea towards Istanbul. We are having a great trip so far and it is refreshing to be exploring new territory in a different country.
Since we last blogged a lot has happened… where to begin… ahh Skiathos!
My kingdom for scuba gear
After seeing Mum and Graham off on their big trip we tried to head off on ours but came to a shuddering stop when our anchor caught on a large chain. (Yep Graham, that’s what you heard in the night!) Unfortunately we had very carefully missed the mooring chain at 20 metres from the quay but snagged to otherwise unknown giant ships chain at 30 metres out… 60 Euros and 5 minutes work by a diver soon freed us off but goodness knows how much other crap must be down there as the diver was very clear on “pull anchor straight up” as he saw potential problems all around it! We left the quay with the diver still down exploring the harbour… possibly hooking up other peoples anchors??
We have a couple of days spare now till Jez arrives in Skiathos and we use them wisely… eating great calamari and drifting about quiet anchorages between swims.
Finally the big day arrives and it is back to Skiathos to pick up the “Fat Controller” (you should have never shown us those railway mags, Jez). We park up amongst the fishing boats – no way are we going on the quay again - and head in to shoot the shit with the flot crew, eat Chinese and load up Jez. The Chinese is a great, with an eclectic mix of Greek and Chinese fittings and just enough friendliness to make it “number one” flotilla restaurant!
A smashingly good time is had by all…
With Jez on board we head back out into the Sporades and up towards the marine reserve. On the way to our first stop we see the first sunfish we have seen since 1997 and place is alive with birdlife. A definite change from the usual Mediterranean sea life and testament to the joys of marine reserves. As the next few days are supposed to be a bit windy we opt to stay amongst the islands near Alonissos.
We find a wonderful bay on Peristera with quaint little Greek bachs and a pretty olive grove so we long long line to an olive tree and spend the rest of the day chilling out and playing rummikub. The water temperature has yet to rise above “oh my god degrees”; hovering around the 14 mark but we still swim every day.
During the night Jez discovers that modern boats have a weight limit of 20 stone and falls through the forepeak. Not bad going Jez… second one in two weeks…
The next day we head back to Alonissos and take a walk up to the old chora. It is a bit of a challenge for Jez but the threat of getting wet in an imminent thunderstorm and the desire to protect future forepeaks from damage keeps him on the go. It was a magical spot and the added excitement of being right in the thick of the lightning whilst sipping a beer was an absolute added bonus if somewhat scary. Back down to the boat and a great time at the restaurant with a half cut Tottenham girl, however a rolly night (couldn’t possibly have been the beer and wine?!) leaves us heading for the quiet of Peristera once more!
There is just time to head up to the next island of Panagia before Jez jets off home and on the way we see a pod of enormous dolphins. We are starting to get the impression that our new prop is a thing of interest and word has spread of this new fanged piece of kit as all the dolphins we pass seem to check it out in great detail. We can just hear them all tut, tutting “well I never, it’s made of plastic, well that will never last!”
Panagia is another peaceful spot with virtually nothing in the way of houses or development. Unfortunately we attract a French catamaran that chooses to long line right in our swinging circle… hopefully the wind will stay the same way or we will all be in strife. Murray and I take a trip ashore and go on a climb to the top of the island. There is a great view down into the bay on the other side where we intend to go in the next few days and loads of goats to wander about with. Murray is intent on gaining his wildlife badge, having spotted most of the sea life so far, and hunts down a rustling tortoise in the bushes… too cool… eat your heart out David Attenborough!
When we get back the cat has had kittens and a German boat is rafted up to it. He proceeds to row ashore two huge speakers and blasts the day with a mix of classical and world music… not too bad… shame the French preferred Neil Diamond… Jez was not amused having to sleep right next to it but probably more amused than Murray was when they cut in front of us the next day while we are sailing… I didn’t know Murray knew words like that and no, we wouldn’t be pleased to see them again!
Jez has to go home tomorrow so we head back to Alonnisos and after a brief stop in shallow Steni Vala (only a small chip in the rudder!) we attempt a landing on the quay at Patitiri… talk about heaving seas… no way!! Up and down and back and forward like a bast***d, I think was the comment and we motor off to anchor among the fishing boats yet again! One thing to remember when anchoring off is having an appropriate choice of easy dingy landing spot and to not be fooled by gently sloping beaches… the shopping arrives back pretty much ok but the boys are a little wetter than expected!
One more big meal out and then we wave goodbye to Jez… quite frankly I am glad to see the back of him as I had been winning at Rummikub right up until the last minute only to have my huge score wiped out by him in the last game on board… still there is always next time!
Tallyho Turkey
It’s off towards Turkey now and first stop on the way is the bay we had seen from the top of the hill. It’s in Monk seal territory. The coastline is pocked with subterranean caves, perfect breeding habitat for these shy creatures but with less than a 1000 around Greece we didn’t really expect to see any. In fact we appreciate all the more the three or four we saw last year off the coast of the Peloponnese.
Ormos Plantis is a beautiful spot. A virtually landlocked bay (the entrance is less than a 100 metres wide) with two arms surrounded by rocky beaches and the tinkling of goat bells. Shame about the rubbish that litters the otherwise picturesque place but it looks like there may be a clean up happening as bags of it are sitting around the small shrine recently erected on the foreshore. We enjoy an extremely peaceful night’s sleep before an early get away to head north once more.
How the Khalkidhiki are you?
We want to explore the Khalkidhiki fingers of the mainland before heading off to Turkey. We have heard they are a mixture of sandy beaches, remote bays and glitzy bars… opting for the more remote option we avoid the index finger with its glamorous array of whose who’s and want-a-be’s and head to Porto Korfos. On the way we are surrounded by what must be over 200 dolphins playing, hunting and also heading north. We get some great photos before they disappear into the vast blue from whence they came… absolutely awesome! This area is known for its tuna fishing industry and is another place that seems to contain a huge number of fish, turtles and seabirds. It is a pleasant change from watching the odd jellyfish glide by.
Porto Korfos is a really interesting little harbour and we soon come to realise that this neck of Greece has been discovered by the Russians. In one taverna we are serenaded by Svetlana on the piano… amazingly talented and content to cook and clean for the money rather than teach piano and live in poverty in Russia. Down in the village the local boys have discovered Rrrussian girls are to their liking and the two languages are heard everywhere.
We need to top up with water and do some laundry so we head up to Neos Marmaris. Our charts are not as accurate around here as they have been and we soon discover that we can’t afford to get too blasé as we attempt to cross between two islands only to find they are in fact joined by a pee gravel bank… good job we never take things at face value and we screech to a halt just in time!
As we drift up and down the peninsulas it becomes clear that all is not as remote as it once was – massive caravan parks are on every beach as we head over to the last “finger” and where there aren’t caravans there are clusters of metallic silver tents dotted amongst the trees and crouched on the sandy shores. We ask about and it turns out that this is a popular area for Greeks to come on holiday and is absolutely pounding in the summer; not at the moment though and it is quite eerie to wander though deserted camps; awnings and buildings ravaged by winter storms create the impression that the end of the world has arrived early here.
We are enjoying the lack of other boats and the people up here are less world weary than those closer to Athens. Very little English is spoken and they seem to want to take the time if you attempt a bit of Greek. We are getting quite good now and even a couple of Greeks comment positively on our mastery of the language!
We flit between secluded anchorages and tiny villages as we weave our way up and down the coastline. Of note was a great spot in Ammoulanai. After being moved off the outer quay to make room for trip boats, you guessed dear readers, we moor up on the quay amongst the fishing boats. It’s a tight squeeze in and a close call on the depth getting there but it was a wonderful spot and we sleep like babies until the 4am fishing session.
Monk he see, monk he do…
Today it’s off to Athos Peninsula. It’s an amazing place in this day and age; semi-autonomous, it is inhabited by 1600 monks and no women or female domestic animals (apparently hens have been exempted of late!) are allowed to set foot within its boundaries and we has to keep 500m off the coast because I have bumps on the front. Must be the maximum working range of your average pair of binoculars. The Athonite Monks have been in this area from the very early years of the Byzantine Empire and only 10 foreign adult males are allowed to visit per day and then only if you can prove you are religious! To go there is to step back 550 years and 13 days, quite literally, as they still use the Julian calendar.
The monasteries are amazing as we sail down the coast towards the holy Mount Athos on the very end; some in decay, some clinging stubbornly to sheer cliff walls while others enjoy a renaissance with new developments and repairs evident even from 500m out. One of the spin offs of this self imposed isolation is the lack of building other than around each monastery and the peninsula is covered in trees and supposedly provides habitat and refuge for various large mammals long since extinct elsewhere in Greece. Even the sea seems to enjoy and break from commercialism and a school of tuna frolic in front of us as we cruise on by.
The lovely Limnos
There is only one more stop for us in Greece now and Limnos is the obvious jumping off point for heading to the Dardanelles and Istanbul.
As we head away from the mainland the sea becomes bluer and the sky clearer and Limnos looms low on the horizon like an overstuffed velour sofa. The island is renowned for its lack of trees and the saying goes no tree higher than parsley grows inland! From a distance that it plainly evident, as is the volcanic nature of the land. Rounded hills are rudely interrupted by upthrusts of craggy rock and rocks pop out of no where. Limnos was the base for the allied forces before the ill-fated Gallipoli campaign and the Greeks still have a heavy military presence here to show the Turks what they’ve got. We anchor off in a bay sort out a plan of attack for our assault on the Dardanelles. Murray’s Mum is ill at the moment so we stay around Limnos longer than expected in case a quick trip to the UK is needed. No hardship really. The people are friendly and the town has a great feel to it. We wander up to the kastro and hunt down the tiny deer that keep it tidy and then stroll around the backstreets which are full of archaeological digs where they are mending the drains.
The town is a buzz with activity the whole waterfront is having a make over and the village has a well looked after feel.
The military nature of the island is very evident with loads of well muscled young men in tight t-shirts and a constant stream of jets playing war games overhead. Very Top Gun!
We finally get the all clear from Murray’s mum and we check out of Greece. There is a series of southerlies predicted for the next few days; perfect for the crossing to Turkey and the push up the Dardanelles… can’t wait!
After seeing Mum and Graham off on their big trip we tried to head off on ours but came to a shuddering stop when our anchor caught on a large chain. (Yep Graham, that’s what you heard in the night!) Unfortunately we had very carefully missed the mooring chain at 20 metres from the quay but snagged to otherwise unknown giant ships chain at 30 metres out… 60 Euros and 5 minutes work by a diver soon freed us off but goodness knows how much other crap must be down there as the diver was very clear on “pull anchor straight up” as he saw potential problems all around it! We left the quay with the diver still down exploring the harbour… possibly hooking up other peoples anchors??
We have a couple of days spare now till Jez arrives in Skiathos and we use them wisely… eating great calamari and drifting about quiet anchorages between swims.
Finally the big day arrives and it is back to Skiathos to pick up the “Fat Controller” (you should have never shown us those railway mags, Jez). We park up amongst the fishing boats – no way are we going on the quay again - and head in to shoot the shit with the flot crew, eat Chinese and load up Jez. The Chinese is a great, with an eclectic mix of Greek and Chinese fittings and just enough friendliness to make it “number one” flotilla restaurant!
A smashingly good time is had by all…
With Jez on board we head back out into the Sporades and up towards the marine reserve. On the way to our first stop we see the first sunfish we have seen since 1997 and place is alive with birdlife. A definite change from the usual Mediterranean sea life and testament to the joys of marine reserves. As the next few days are supposed to be a bit windy we opt to stay amongst the islands near Alonissos.
We find a wonderful bay on Peristera with quaint little Greek bachs and a pretty olive grove so we long long line to an olive tree and spend the rest of the day chilling out and playing rummikub. The water temperature has yet to rise above “oh my god degrees”; hovering around the 14 mark but we still swim every day.
During the night Jez discovers that modern boats have a weight limit of 20 stone and falls through the forepeak. Not bad going Jez… second one in two weeks…
The next day we head back to Alonissos and take a walk up to the old chora. It is a bit of a challenge for Jez but the threat of getting wet in an imminent thunderstorm and the desire to protect future forepeaks from damage keeps him on the go. It was a magical spot and the added excitement of being right in the thick of the lightning whilst sipping a beer was an absolute added bonus if somewhat scary. Back down to the boat and a great time at the restaurant with a half cut Tottenham girl, however a rolly night (couldn’t possibly have been the beer and wine?!) leaves us heading for the quiet of Peristera once more!
There is just time to head up to the next island of Panagia before Jez jets off home and on the way we see a pod of enormous dolphins. We are starting to get the impression that our new prop is a thing of interest and word has spread of this new fanged piece of kit as all the dolphins we pass seem to check it out in great detail. We can just hear them all tut, tutting “well I never, it’s made of plastic, well that will never last!”
Panagia is another peaceful spot with virtually nothing in the way of houses or development. Unfortunately we attract a French catamaran that chooses to long line right in our swinging circle… hopefully the wind will stay the same way or we will all be in strife. Murray and I take a trip ashore and go on a climb to the top of the island. There is a great view down into the bay on the other side where we intend to go in the next few days and loads of goats to wander about with. Murray is intent on gaining his wildlife badge, having spotted most of the sea life so far, and hunts down a rustling tortoise in the bushes… too cool… eat your heart out David Attenborough!
When we get back the cat has had kittens and a German boat is rafted up to it. He proceeds to row ashore two huge speakers and blasts the day with a mix of classical and world music… not too bad… shame the French preferred Neil Diamond… Jez was not amused having to sleep right next to it but probably more amused than Murray was when they cut in front of us the next day while we are sailing… I didn’t know Murray knew words like that and no, we wouldn’t be pleased to see them again!
Jez has to go home tomorrow so we head back to Alonnisos and after a brief stop in shallow Steni Vala (only a small chip in the rudder!) we attempt a landing on the quay at Patitiri… talk about heaving seas… no way!! Up and down and back and forward like a bast***d, I think was the comment and we motor off to anchor among the fishing boats yet again! One thing to remember when anchoring off is having an appropriate choice of easy dingy landing spot and to not be fooled by gently sloping beaches… the shopping arrives back pretty much ok but the boys are a little wetter than expected!
One more big meal out and then we wave goodbye to Jez… quite frankly I am glad to see the back of him as I had been winning at Rummikub right up until the last minute only to have my huge score wiped out by him in the last game on board… still there is always next time!
Tallyho Turkey
It’s off towards Turkey now and first stop on the way is the bay we had seen from the top of the hill. It’s in Monk seal territory. The coastline is pocked with subterranean caves, perfect breeding habitat for these shy creatures but with less than a 1000 around Greece we didn’t really expect to see any. In fact we appreciate all the more the three or four we saw last year off the coast of the Peloponnese.
Ormos Plantis is a beautiful spot. A virtually landlocked bay (the entrance is less than a 100 metres wide) with two arms surrounded by rocky beaches and the tinkling of goat bells. Shame about the rubbish that litters the otherwise picturesque place but it looks like there may be a clean up happening as bags of it are sitting around the small shrine recently erected on the foreshore. We enjoy an extremely peaceful night’s sleep before an early get away to head north once more.
How the Khalkidhiki are you?
We want to explore the Khalkidhiki fingers of the mainland before heading off to Turkey. We have heard they are a mixture of sandy beaches, remote bays and glitzy bars… opting for the more remote option we avoid the index finger with its glamorous array of whose who’s and want-a-be’s and head to Porto Korfos. On the way we are surrounded by what must be over 200 dolphins playing, hunting and also heading north. We get some great photos before they disappear into the vast blue from whence they came… absolutely awesome! This area is known for its tuna fishing industry and is another place that seems to contain a huge number of fish, turtles and seabirds. It is a pleasant change from watching the odd jellyfish glide by.
Porto Korfos is a really interesting little harbour and we soon come to realise that this neck of Greece has been discovered by the Russians. In one taverna we are serenaded by Svetlana on the piano… amazingly talented and content to cook and clean for the money rather than teach piano and live in poverty in Russia. Down in the village the local boys have discovered Rrrussian girls are to their liking and the two languages are heard everywhere.
We need to top up with water and do some laundry so we head up to Neos Marmaris. Our charts are not as accurate around here as they have been and we soon discover that we can’t afford to get too blasé as we attempt to cross between two islands only to find they are in fact joined by a pee gravel bank… good job we never take things at face value and we screech to a halt just in time!
As we drift up and down the peninsulas it becomes clear that all is not as remote as it once was – massive caravan parks are on every beach as we head over to the last “finger” and where there aren’t caravans there are clusters of metallic silver tents dotted amongst the trees and crouched on the sandy shores. We ask about and it turns out that this is a popular area for Greeks to come on holiday and is absolutely pounding in the summer; not at the moment though and it is quite eerie to wander though deserted camps; awnings and buildings ravaged by winter storms create the impression that the end of the world has arrived early here.
We are enjoying the lack of other boats and the people up here are less world weary than those closer to Athens. Very little English is spoken and they seem to want to take the time if you attempt a bit of Greek. We are getting quite good now and even a couple of Greeks comment positively on our mastery of the language!
We flit between secluded anchorages and tiny villages as we weave our way up and down the coastline. Of note was a great spot in Ammoulanai. After being moved off the outer quay to make room for trip boats, you guessed dear readers, we moor up on the quay amongst the fishing boats. It’s a tight squeeze in and a close call on the depth getting there but it was a wonderful spot and we sleep like babies until the 4am fishing session.
Monk he see, monk he do…
Today it’s off to Athos Peninsula. It’s an amazing place in this day and age; semi-autonomous, it is inhabited by 1600 monks and no women or female domestic animals (apparently hens have been exempted of late!) are allowed to set foot within its boundaries and we has to keep 500m off the coast because I have bumps on the front. Must be the maximum working range of your average pair of binoculars. The Athonite Monks have been in this area from the very early years of the Byzantine Empire and only 10 foreign adult males are allowed to visit per day and then only if you can prove you are religious! To go there is to step back 550 years and 13 days, quite literally, as they still use the Julian calendar.
The monasteries are amazing as we sail down the coast towards the holy Mount Athos on the very end; some in decay, some clinging stubbornly to sheer cliff walls while others enjoy a renaissance with new developments and repairs evident even from 500m out. One of the spin offs of this self imposed isolation is the lack of building other than around each monastery and the peninsula is covered in trees and supposedly provides habitat and refuge for various large mammals long since extinct elsewhere in Greece. Even the sea seems to enjoy and break from commercialism and a school of tuna frolic in front of us as we cruise on by.
The lovely Limnos
There is only one more stop for us in Greece now and Limnos is the obvious jumping off point for heading to the Dardanelles and Istanbul.
As we head away from the mainland the sea becomes bluer and the sky clearer and Limnos looms low on the horizon like an overstuffed velour sofa. The island is renowned for its lack of trees and the saying goes no tree higher than parsley grows inland! From a distance that it plainly evident, as is the volcanic nature of the land. Rounded hills are rudely interrupted by upthrusts of craggy rock and rocks pop out of no where. Limnos was the base for the allied forces before the ill-fated Gallipoli campaign and the Greeks still have a heavy military presence here to show the Turks what they’ve got. We anchor off in a bay sort out a plan of attack for our assault on the Dardanelles. Murray’s Mum is ill at the moment so we stay around Limnos longer than expected in case a quick trip to the UK is needed. No hardship really. The people are friendly and the town has a great feel to it. We wander up to the kastro and hunt down the tiny deer that keep it tidy and then stroll around the backstreets which are full of archaeological digs where they are mending the drains.
The town is a buzz with activity the whole waterfront is having a make over and the village has a well looked after feel.
The military nature of the island is very evident with loads of well muscled young men in tight t-shirts and a constant stream of jets playing war games overhead. Very Top Gun!
We finally get the all clear from Murray’s mum and we check out of Greece. There is a series of southerlies predicted for the next few days; perfect for the crossing to Turkey and the push up the Dardanelles… can’t wait!
And so it is goodbye to Greece for now… our thoughts on the country as a whole?The place has changed so much since we were last here 12 years ago it is hard to know where to start. The north has been lovely as the effects of the acceptance into the EU have been slow to take hold. However, on the whole there seems to have been a swing away from being “Greek”. It’s more homogenised; rattan chairs and the café set abound where once tiny ouzeries full of crinkly old men playing backgammon ruled. Roads cut through the countryside at regular intervals, ugly concrete building stalk the land and every beach has sprouted sun loungers and umbrellas. The Greeks have turned in on themselves and seem reject anything that might be considered to be primitive or old world. New is the only way to go and anything old with character and charm is swept aside in favour of a bit of modern glitz and glamour. For the most part they are embracing being “European” with a vengeance and to us it would seem at the detriment of what made Greece Greek and therefore unique. Add to this the world weary attitude towards tourists and the exorbitant prices and it not hard to see why sometimes you get the impression you are tolerated but not really wanted in many quayside and towns. But it is not all bad; there are now windfarms, cat neutering programmes, sanitised toilets, rubbish bins and it is still a beautiful place and we are sure that once the novelty of EU money has worn off or the recession kicks in there will be a return to some of the things that attracted the Shirley Valantine part in all of us.
So long Greece see you next year…
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