Wet and Windy!

Have to say the England is living up to it reputation as a land of varied weather… Unfortunately we are now in a wet, windy and cold patch it would seem but, to be fair, there have been a couple of sunny half hour spells just to keep us hoping.  No wonder the weather here is one of the hottest topics of conversation!

Chilly day in Well Next the Sea

Current location… Hartlepool Marina in a rousing force 7 or so with the gentle background drum of rain on the spray hood… but where before here you might ask…

The Awesome Ore

From Woodbridge we managed to weave our way back down the shallows and out of the entrance (rather bumpy) and headed up the coast to the mouth of the Ore… one of the most feared river entrances on the east coast.  Murray didn’t tell me that till we were in.  As it was he was very pale the whole way through the very narrow channel and nearly had a conniption when the depth dropped to 2.8m on one particular spot.  (For those not paying attention; we draw 1.5m, the tidal range on this part of the coast over 2m and we were entering at high tide – kind of makes you wonder about the accuracy of the channel depths they tell you!!)

Anyway it’s a lovely river with a bird sanctuary on one side and wide flat fields peeking out from behind a flood levy on the other. 

Mud, glorious mud... nothing quite like it!

Orford (The ford on the Ore) was our first stop and what a delight.  It’s a beautiful village with quaint little cottages clothed in roses and wisteria (not out yet – still winter!), an old church and a polygonal castle tower.  We loved strolling around its sniggets and byways. All very “Midsomer Murders” with stout, tweed armoured ladies sporting willow shopping baskets and red faced gents with well heeled black Labradors striding about the countryside in search of game my good man.  You don’t get that on the regular tourist trail and we stayed longer on the way back down the river to further enjoy its secrets.

Up river was Aldeburg, with its eclectic selection of building styles and attempts at seaside razzmatazz.  The dog of choice here was more the staffy and a dresscode of trackpants abounded.  Still it was friendly enough and as the wind decided to pick up we also had an extra day here as well to appreciate its better points like the White Hart and more Adnams Ghost Ship.

Also of note in this part of our river sojourn were the lamb loin chops from the Aldeburg butcher – no offence NZ woolly bum farmers but they were the best we have ever had! – and the amazing chicken curry Murray made; you could literally smell from a mile away – that must have had the locals mouths watering!

Have to say though that we will be glad to get out of these east coast rivers (however quiet and picturesque) due to the muddy nature of the landings… Murray had a particularly torrid time at one point when his dingy wheels get stuck in the mud preventing forward or backward motion – what a time to find out your sailing wellies have sprung a leak.  Needless to say it was a bedraggled man and dog that finally arrived back at the boat to be hosed off!!  

Soulful Southwold

Hail today.  We finally broke the grip of the tides and slipped out of the Ore with 10cm under the keel (Don’t fret it was a flat calm day) and motorsailed up the coast to get to Southwold in time for the next high tide.  What a neat little spot!  You come in and trundle past black pitched fishing huts, swing around with the tide, tie up to some rickety old wooden staging, position your fender board and step out onto the pubs carpark.  The harbour is no where near the main centre of Southwold but that can be seen on the rise across the water laden fields and marshes.  It’s a lovely town (again with a most eclectic town planner!) not short on cute beach huts and fancy art galleries… and the Adnams brewery.  We take the opportunity to ask for a promotional Ghost Ship glass as all the pubs had run out and get some birthday presents.

Note to would be mariners here… the tide runs very strongly and we notice our aft cleat has worked a bit loose in the ebb!

Lowly Lowestoft

From Southwold we move north again to Lowestoft… not a scenic delight!  Dirty and grim springs to mind and the main town is rough and ready.  We don’t venture out of the marina sanctuary very much and when we do discover its wonderful esplanade and sandy beach it is all too little too late to change our first impressions!

The best thing about Lowestoft - the Yacht Club - now thats a building!!

Surfs up dude!

The beach huts at Wells

Next stop is Wells Next The Sea.  Everyone has been trying to talk us out of this one except the harbour master from Wells itself.  (Our first call to him of the day! – “you’ll be fine”) The entrance is tricky apparently.  We leave Lowestoft bright and early and hammer our way up the coast.  It’s very lumpy and for the first time ever we got a greeny that rolled over the boat, up the fixed windscreen and over the top of the pramhood. Next we discovered some uncharted overfalls and an expanded sandbank behind a windfarm – there was a brief moment of excitement as we charged about looking for deeper water.  (Call number two to Wells Harbour Master – are you sure the entrance will be OK??) Bramble at this point retires to bed.  No point in everyone being soaking wet! 

Eventually the conditions improved and the sun came out – hurrah – but still a long large swell running from the NE… hummm…

The long and winding channel...

At the start of the buoyed channel now and nothing but white water and roaring surf to be seen – think Raglan bar maybe.  Call number three to Harbour Master – “oh you’ll be fine just follow the buoys in!”  I think he thinks we are a bit whimpy by now!

Channel marker at low tide!

Next to the "Albatros" at low tide

And so in we went… what a ride!!  Surfing down the waves at goodness knows what speed (Murray was too afraid to take his eyes of the buoys so we will never know!) we had to make a right angle to avoid the beach and keep to the main channel.  They talk about white knuckle rides and now I’ve seen it in the flesh of poor Murray’s hands!  Obviously we made it but my word it was pretty exciting stuff and we can see why most people don’t go there but take our word for it, it’s worth it!  What a lovely place.  Pretty village, amazing harbour, fantastic beach and, once you get over how little water there is a low tide, incredibly picturesque.  We moored up next to the sailing barge come pub/café “Albatros” and stayed afloat most of the time which was handy but there was also a spot next to one of the wind farm guard vessels on the pontoon which never seemed to dry.  We’d be back for sure but never again after a northerly easterly blow!