Gosh, I see its been 9 months since I last updated our blog... I promise I have been writing but just not got round to publishing it... more to come in the next few weeks!
After a whirlwind sail along the coast of Montenegro we
finally outstayed out welcome and cruising permit so upped anchor, waved
goodbye to the hordes of Serbs and Russians, with their pasty bodies and scary
skin diseases, as well as the ever friendly and tolerant Montenegrins and
headed north to the cruising wonderland of Croatia.
Cavtat turned out to be a lovely place though. A twee and
tidy town with a plethora of short walks along the foreshore, through shady
trees and plenty of bars and restaurants. Have to say it became one of our
favourite places and just as well as we tried to leave and go to Lokrum only to
find no dogs allowed so back we came via Mlini. Now here’s a thing, for all
that Cavtat is posh and sophisticated, Mlini was not. That poor little place was not spared the
fighting of the early 90’s and the bombed and bullet ridden hotels remain
despite the locals attempts to rebuild. Very sobering indeed. Certainly brings
it home that war seems to be always round the corner.
After our aborted attempt to leave the wonders of Cavtat we
decide to take the bus to Dubrovnik instead. You can’t get in the old harbour
anyway so this seems the best and cheapest option. Dubrovnik lives up to all
its hype but probably not our wisest of decisions to visit late July with the
summer sun burning overhead and the sweaty armpits of most of humanity there as
well. Oh to be just that little bit taller!
Still it is a stunning little city and we manage to walk the wall (100
Kuna each – this turns out to be the standard charge for anything in Croatia!)
and have lunch at a lovely vegetarian restaurant in the cool and peaceful back
streets as well as walking most of the old and new city. For such fans of the Game
of Thrones series we are surprised to see Dubrovnik has been the backdrop to so
many of the scenes. The things you didn’t know. (Come on George, just finish
the damn book!!)
After a brief stop on the mainland at the well sheltered but
somewhat characterless bay of Slano we sailed out to Mljet. Half of Mljet is a
national park but we decide to anchor up on the southern end first. Again there
are fabulous walks and much sweat was gushed in the making of these photos!
Good job we decided against the restaurant buoys in Polace and opt for
Saplunara instead as we see one boat dragged the buoy into the rocks during the
night and sank. Not a good look.
The northern National Park of Mljet is justifiably a jewel in
Croatia’s crown. A seven day pass costs us a mere 80 Kuna each (Bramble free!)
and we spend every waking hour exploring the area. What a fabulous asset for
the country and despite its popularity it seems surprising underutilised off
the beaten tracks. Bramble continues to show us up by bounding up and down the
winding paths after tortoises and squirrels and splashing about in the sea and
lakes. It’s lovely to see her enjoying herself so much. We are all on a bit of
a health kick so plenty of running for me and suspension training for Murray.
Neighbouring boats are most intrigued and Murray seems to ignite the
competitive edge in the rest of the males and there are lots of push ups and
pull ups going on!
Korcula is the Corfu equivalent for Croatia (even the name is
the same – I know it doesn’t look it but it is… in ancient Greek!) and I have
to say it does bear a striking resemblance to the Greek Island. We potter
slowly up the coast exploring the different bays as we go until we reach Vela
Luka. Like Korcula this is the busiest place we have seen for a while and there
is a charge for anchoring even right out at Gradina Bay but when we were asked
for cash we politely move to the next bay and anchor for free. This seems to be
the norm now. If you are asked for money you can either pay or ask where you
can anchor for free and they will happily tell you. We nip into Vela Luka to re-provision
but decide to leave exploring till we come back this way.
It’s a bit more gusty and unsettled now. Something that
happens in this part of Croatia at this time of the year we are told so we
hole-up on Scedro for a few days and chill out long-lined to the shore. A
lovely spot but the walking is not as good the island doesn’t have as much
money as some but one local enterprising couple make a nightly trip out to the
boats to sell their homemade wine, oil and brandy. Murray is a good customer.
We really want to see Hvar but the place is mobbed and the
prices are outrageous so we opt for an anchorage opposite. This is a scary
place and best avoided if busy but we didn’t know that. With a 3 knot current
running between the islands we frequently have near misses with yachties not
used to tides and currents and then have to contend with a 56 knot thunderstorm
that blows straight through the gap. To say there was chaos would be an
understatement! With yachts dragging left, right and centre and we could only
hold our breath as we motored on the spot to take the weight off the anchor
while everyone else was taking evasive action. When the dust settled there was
just us, an Italian and another Kiwi boat left anchored. Not somewhere we would
hurry back to!
We are keen to explore the upper reaches of the Skadrin River and Krka Falls so we battle our way up the coast (mildly windy but what decent cruiser goes to windward??!) and slip into the river mouth. The trip up the river is lovely. It is like cruising through the Cromwell Gorge. The sea level here rose 100 meters to form this “drowned” valley. We stop at Rasline and to let Bramble ogle a captive tortoise breeding programme in a lady’s backyard before venturing further towards Skradin and Krka National Park.
First stop Cavtat… not a good start as we were rather rudely
waved off the quarantine quay, then bumped in the queue by two superyachts
before being summarily squeezed on to the very end of the dock, told off for
not flying the yellow flag and charged 100 Kuna (1€=7.5Kuna)for the privilege
of tying up! Following a further stinging bill of 1400 plus Kuna for a cruising
permit and tourist tax we were grateful to be able to slink away to the free
anchorage on the other side of the peninsula. At least there are squirrels is
all Bramble had to say on the matter!
Cavtat turned out to be a lovely place though. A twee and
tidy town with a plethora of short walks along the foreshore, through shady
trees and plenty of bars and restaurants. Have to say it became one of our
favourite places and just as well as we tried to leave and go to Lokrum only to
find no dogs allowed so back we came via Mlini. Now here’s a thing, for all
that Cavtat is posh and sophisticated, Mlini was not. That poor little place was not spared the
fighting of the early 90’s and the bombed and bullet ridden hotels remain
despite the locals attempts to rebuild. Very sobering indeed. Certainly brings
it home that war seems to be always round the corner.
After our aborted attempt to leave the wonders of Cavtat we
decide to take the bus to Dubrovnik instead. You can’t get in the old harbour
anyway so this seems the best and cheapest option. Dubrovnik lives up to all
its hype but probably not our wisest of decisions to visit late July with the
summer sun burning overhead and the sweaty armpits of most of humanity there as
well. Oh to be just that little bit taller!
Still it is a stunning little city and we manage to walk the wall (100
Kuna each – this turns out to be the standard charge for anything in Croatia!)
and have lunch at a lovely vegetarian restaurant in the cool and peaceful back
streets as well as walking most of the old and new city. For such fans of the Game
of Thrones series we are surprised to see Dubrovnik has been the backdrop to so
many of the scenes. The things you didn’t know. (Come on George, just finish
the damn book!!)
Our wind instruments are playing up so we tootle up river to
the ACI Marina Dubrovnik and have a lovely gentleman come and check them out.
Josip is convinced that it is just a wiring problem but not willing to stake his
life on it so we promise to uprate the wiring in due course. Rather than pay
for an expensive marina berth we decide to head over to Kolocep instead.
Gornje Celo, on the
south eastern side of Kolocep, was a wonderful place to drop the hook and kick
back. After the local boats had all left, we paddled ashore and took a walk
around the island before having a vino or two with the friendly islanders at
the tiny bar/café on the quay in the little harbour. There are worse ways to
spend the early evening. Kolocep is a fascinating island and packs a lot of
punch for such a small piece of land. The diversity of the vegetation,
landscapes and farmed plots is astounding but makes more sense when you realize
that the island used to be very popular with the nobility of Dubrovnik and home
to many of their summer mansions. Sadly most of them lie in ruins today but the
island is slowly being rediscovered. Gornje Celo, however, seems to have retained
a pleasant un-touristy feel which suits us down to the ground. Croatia is
definitely starting to grow on us.
So far it has been pretty quiet yachts wise. Not many Germans
and very few Italians. Charter boats seem few and far between as well. Croatia
had a reputation for charging high prices to moor and even to anchor but we
haven’t found this to be the case yet.
Next stop was Sipan Island after a brief stop at Sunj. Hard
to get your tongue around the names but the places are very laidback and
surprisingly, after all the reports we have had, the people seem friendly if
you make an effort. Naturally suspicious and not particularly outgoing I can
see how they project an air of offhandness but once you make it past the usual
pleasantries they seem genuinely interested to talk to you.
So far each island has had a character of its own but all
have been linked by the fantastic walking available. Bramble is having a fabulous
time despite the lack of wildlife to harass. It’s lovely to have so many trees
to walk through especially at this time of the year when the heat would kill us
otherwise.
After a brief stop on the mainland at the well sheltered but
somewhat characterless bay of Slano we sailed out to Mljet. Half of Mljet is a
national park but we decide to anchor up on the southern end first. Again there
are fabulous walks and much sweat was gushed in the making of these photos!
Good job we decided against the restaurant buoys in Polace and opt for
Saplunara instead as we see one boat dragged the buoy into the rocks during the
night and sank. Not a good look.
The northern National Park of Mljet is justifiably a jewel in
Croatia’s crown. A seven day pass costs us a mere 80 Kuna each (Bramble free!)
and we spend every waking hour exploring the area. What a fabulous asset for
the country and despite its popularity it seems surprising underutilised off
the beaten tracks. Bramble continues to show us up by bounding up and down the
winding paths after tortoises and squirrels and splashing about in the sea and
lakes. It’s lovely to see her enjoying herself so much. We are all on a bit of
a health kick so plenty of running for me and suspension training for Murray.
Neighbouring boats are most intrigued and Murray seems to ignite the
competitive edge in the rest of the males and there are lots of push ups and
pull ups going on!
Onward to Korcula. Korcula seems very busy compared with the
park but it is a delightful place. A bit like Dubrovnik but thankfully whittled
down to a more manageable size. Bramble is not as keen as she has to be stabbed
for Rabies but she does enjoy the increase in doggy friends so there is an
upside to town!
Korcula is the Corfu equivalent for Croatia (even the name is
the same – I know it doesn’t look it but it is… in ancient Greek!) and I have
to say it does bear a striking resemblance to the Greek Island. We potter
slowly up the coast exploring the different bays as we go until we reach Vela
Luka. Like Korcula this is the busiest place we have seen for a while and there
is a charge for anchoring even right out at Gradina Bay but when we were asked
for cash we politely move to the next bay and anchor for free. This seems to be
the norm now. If you are asked for money you can either pay or ask where you
can anchor for free and they will happily tell you. We nip into Vela Luka to re-provision
but decide to leave exploring till we come back this way. 
It’s a bit more gusty and unsettled now. Something that
happens in this part of Croatia at this time of the year we are told so we
hole-up on Scedro for a few days and chill out long-lined to the shore. A
lovely spot but the walking is not as good the island doesn’t have as much
money as some but one local enterprising couple make a nightly trip out to the
boats to sell their homemade wine, oil and brandy. Murray is a good customer.
We really want to see Hvar but the place is mobbed and the
prices are outrageous so we opt for an anchorage opposite. This is a scary
place and best avoided if busy but we didn’t know that. With a 3 knot current
running between the islands we frequently have near misses with yachties not
used to tides and currents and then have to contend with a 56 knot thunderstorm
that blows straight through the gap. To say there was chaos would be an
understatement! With yachts dragging left, right and centre and we could only
hold our breath as we motored on the spot to take the weight off the anchor
while everyone else was taking evasive action. When the dust settled there was
just us, an Italian and another Kiwi boat left anchored. Not somewhere we would
hurry back to!
We are missing our usual quiet, well sheltered anchorages so
we head north again and pull up in Vinisce. This is more like it. Good holding,
good shelter and plenty of good walking. Maybe we should get Bramble a pair of
hiking boots!
Croatia is showing itself to be quietly understated in its
tourism ethos. Lots of natural features and low key villages that are well
ordered and unobtrusive. I think they are used to limited interaction with
their visitors and prefer it that way. Visit our country but don’t create too
much fuss seems to be the motto. No loud discos and hoopla allowed. A
refreshing change for nature lovers like us but somewhat stilted when you
compare it with the likes of lassie fare Greece!
We are keen to explore the upper reaches of the Skadrin River and Krka Falls so we battle our way up the coast (mildly windy but what decent cruiser goes to windward??!) and slip into the river mouth. The trip up the river is lovely. It is like cruising through the Cromwell Gorge. The sea level here rose 100 meters to form this “drowned” valley. We stop at Rasline and to let Bramble ogle a captive tortoise breeding programme in a lady’s backyard before venturing further towards Skradin and Krka National Park.
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