Friday, June 13, 2014

So long Sardegna... see you soon...

Ciao Cari…

Yes I know I have been a bit slack on updating the blog but it has been quite a rolly couple of months and not contusive at all to long periods on the computer! (Avevamo anche mal di mare a volte!)

Where to begin?… c’era una volta…

So we set sail for the season on April 1st (didn’t prove to be an inauspicious date thankfully!) and headed north for Corsica.  Northern Sardinia and the Maddalenas were as meraviglioso as ever.  (Only just left and can’t wait to come back!) 

We enjoyed a week or so of great weather and had the place to ourselves… where is everyone??!  Finally we headed across the straits of Bonifacio and anchored up on Corsica.  Molto carino but somehow more controlled and park-like than Sardegna… fabuloso walking though… ahhh the French do like a nice walk and it does make a pleasant change not to have to tip toe through the spazzatura! 
The snow on the mountains is adding to a slight chill in the air but that doesn’t stop us taking the odd dip and parts of the island remind us of Kaikoura… mountains to the sea…
 

There are certainly some lovely bays on the east coast of the island and we seem to have just the right conditions to enjoy them but soon we have to avail ourselves of some of the marinas and the prices come as a bit of a shock but we have to get beer (oh and water) somewhere!  Maybe they will use the money to dredge some of the entrances… we squeaked into a few and saw a great groove in a sandbar created by “Moody Blue” when they attempted to plough into one in front of us… nice work guys… we followed your track and never touched J.  Turns out the Corsica Rally was underway, starting from the marina so we put our petrol heads on and viewed the array of vehicles as the revved and paraded… pretty cool!
 
The towns on Corse are also a little twee-er than we are used to with overtones of theme park… enjoyable but not as friendly as their façades might suggest.  Somehow the people seem a bit more “grown up” here than the Sardi, and certainly not as smiley and laidback.  (Personally I think they could do with loosening up a bit.)  As it is early season most things are closed or being vamped up for the summer, so not much nightlife to speak of and Murray’s quest for the beach bar sundowner comes to nothing each night… poverino!  Our favourite town was Bastia - a bit scruffy yes, but a friendlier than the rest, less developed and buzzing with activity.  (At the risk of raising Murray ire dare I say it reminded me of Olbia?!)  The harbour was really lovely too (despite the chewed off lazy lines!) and you felt part of the action but unfortunately this did come at some cost so we decided to move on to Elba before the Italian prices got hiked up too.  Still not many people out and about… come on sailors… “where the bloody hell are you??!”
 
We enjoyed a great sail across to Elba… an every point of sail job and wind strengths of whoa to go… Elba looks very barren in comparison with Sardegna and Corsica and the folding and faulting of the rocks is incredibile… again there are some good anchorages if a little rolly at times and stupendo walking… Bramble is in her element and loving the hunting… what she finds to hunt we don’t always know but the odd tartaruga was discovered… unbelievable we see tortoises for sale in a pet shop at 150€ a go… maybe some money to be made here??!  Nice to be speaking italiano again and everyone is really friendly which helps. 
Well you never know where a tartaruga might be hiding??!
 

As an aside we are tracking a 4.4m long great white al momento.  Lydia was tagged on the other side of the world and is now on her way to pup in the Med they think… you go girl… now that would be something to see!
 
Another aside… 6000 more pizza makers are needed in Italy and an Australian wins best pizza in the world… who would have thought that??!

The weather is now becoming a bit more changeable and so we seek refuge is a couple of the bigger harbours… Portoferraio was our favourite.  Lovely town and the harbour is a really happening spot… luckily the anchorage is good too!  We have discovered Birra dell’elba… un eccellente birrificio artigianale!  We try track down the brewery in Rio Marina and end up on a dilapadated pontoon with taffled ropes and various bits of chain dotted about... ruin my back trying to pull up one line with about two metres of three inch chain wrapped around it... we tidy the place up a bit and end up staying per gratis... the brewery has moved up the hill we are told but luckily the pizzeria is an outlet for them and we have a great night tasting the range and eating pizza in great surroundings... a nice end to our time on Elba... onwards to Giglio...
Awesome!!
 

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